Monday, July 27, 2015

Mountains, MTR and a motorcar

 
It takes courage to push yourself to places that you never have been before, to test your limits, 
to break through barriers…(Anais Nin) 

I’m coming up to my fourth week mark in Taiwan, and already I have a sensation of time speeding up with only 8 or so weeks to go. Apparently this is the arts residency dance where you begin with the notion that you have heaps of time, and with a ‘longish’ list of potentially achievable goals. Then as time rolls along those goal posts begin to shift, you adapt and change, seek out and follow new and different directions, all the while adjusting your expectations and reconsidering your project outcomes. Certainly for me each week is bumper full and is its own unique adventure.  

This week it is the week of the M’s!!  
Meetings and greetings with more artists and potential collaborators along with some serious solo hiking and a road trip exploring some of the mountain regions of Taiwan. The latter also involved a motorcar, and as the only artist with an International Driver's permit, purchased before I left Oz, I self-nominated for the role. A day or so later, as I sat in the driver’s seat indicating and about to turn onto a main artery of Taipei, I am definitely having second thoughts…..but more about that later...

By now there are aspects of Taipei you have begun to admire and love, including these M’s:
  • A model public transport system that is one of the best I have experienced anywhere. The Taipei MTR is cheap, efficient, super clean, and seems to always take you close to where you want to go. I have not waited longer than about three minutes for ANY train and the line connections are equally as smooth with all entry and exit directions in both English and Mandarin. Win!
  • The range and variety of food available at all hours is extraordinary. Fresh and inexpensive meal options abound; superb seafood (Shilin Night Market is especially fab), Noodles, Tofu every which way, and just about anything on a stick. Japanese, Taiwanese, Chinese, Korean, and all some of the best food I have eaten for the least amount of $$$. Night markets, basement food halls, vegetarian buffets, lane way street stalls along with a raft of restaurants make selection a real challenge. In addition there is dessert; sweets, cake stalls and various pastry delicacies, all to be tried and tested (I love the way there are small samples so that there is always a smorgasboard of tasty treats) A pineapple sort of biscuit cake is a particular local specialty, and there is a fruit icecream pancake combination with shaved peanut brittle and coriander that has a unusually delicious texture and flavour. This along with a myriad of iced teas on offer in every form and fruity combination. Just don't forget the Taiwanese love their sugar, it’s added into everything including bread, so be sure to ask for your drinks without. The coffee is also amazing, best I have had in Asia, and again options are plentiful. Food here is pretty important, it is central to family and social life, and is a keen topic of conversation with locals and the artists!  I have also never in my life seen more 7-11’s, Family Marts, etc. they are on every street and sell practically everything at all hours. Also, food is the essential thing, while the alcohol is not. At meals everyone definitely drinks substantially less than in Australia, and appears less interested generally in drinking. Selecting where one is going out for a coffee? Well, that’s another thing altogether..!
Shilin Night Market
Hyangro & Helene from TAV, Shilin Night Market
Choose your combo

Dumpling heaven

        • And Mountains…for a woman from the wild west of Oz I am instantly dreamy at the sight of cotton-balled invisible summits leading to hidden heavens. On the weekend I head out solo to Yangmingshan National Park (about 30 mins or so out of Taipei ) for my first major trek. An MTR ride, then a bus trip takes you up into the park where there is a free shuttle that will drop you at various key points for some serious trail blazing. I end up near hot bubbling smoking sulphur pits, and begin what turns out to be a two-hour trek up to the main summit of the park. I am glad I started early as it is a grade 13-14 climb and it feels like I am sweating pints in minutes. The humidity thickens the air and the climb is vertical, so its one foot after the other following the pathway ever upwards. I am also glad for the water bottle, and the change of T/shirt I brought, which proves a necessity for the return bus trip. The Taiwanese take their hiking pretty seriously and everyone is decked out in full body skins, flapped hats with trekking poles to go. I feel somewhat skimpy in my shorts however my cap is a life-saver. This is because I unfortunately don’t have the obligatory face cloth, (that those better prepared have on hand) so as I drip, my cap collects. The experience and the views are amazing, and the elated feeling lingers as I dip my weary feet in a warm sulphur pool down in the valley on the other side.




          I was up there!
          Oh, and did I mention Massage? Again a kaleidoscope of options. From inexpensive shopfront foot massages & reflexology at around $10-15AUD, through to the full spa hot spring experience in the mountains and then everything in between. You can get a two-hour Thai massage from around $40AUD, but for the best value and experience? In the basement of Taipei City bus station the society for the blind give massages from about $8AUD, and they are superb.
           

          The creative week begins on Sunday with a bus and taxi ride to Banqiao to attend the open studio of the 435 Art Studio residency space. (see side page) I'm with another TAV artist Helene Juillet and it’s great to meet some local artists, see their work, and we happily chat away an afternoon.
          My project is now getting underway and I am beginning to explore physical ideas and music in the studio. I research and read about Chinese birth, death and marriage rituals, ghost stories and Taiwanese poetry along with various articles I uncover around my subject and themes. I meet artist/performer Li Hui Huang, recently returned from post-graduate studies in Chicago, who will join the project as my translator.  I also coffee with experienced dancer/ creators Hsiao-Tzu Tien and Yiching Liao along with my colleague Hsu Yen-Ting. I am hopeful the dancers can join me in a few weeks time as things begin to take shape.
          In my various meetings I am having some fascinating discussions with these women about their professional practice and what life is like for them here as practicing contemporary Taiwanese artists. They are curious too to hear my initial perceptions of Taiwan. I reflect on my curiosity about the obvious street presence of the ‘dream-factory’ Taiwanese bridal industry, and we talk about the pressures for Taiwanese women to marry and traditional familial expectations. I am intrigued by the sheer number and variety of wedding boutiques, their array of rainbow fantasy gowns often worn by faceless, head-less and arm-less mannequins, complete with chandelier or grand piano or both!  I learn that the structure, formalities and ritual of the ‘modern’ Taiwanese wedding are very elaborate performances and a significant rite of passage for many young couples…This fuels my thoughts as my research turns up myths and stories of ‘ghost’ brides, and of unmarried women who are ‘hungry’ ghosts (make that malevolent and angry in some way)..its very intriguing…there will be more on this in future posts.



          LOVE...
          Back to the motorcar and those mountains…
          There are many challenges we face as we push ourselves in new directions, reach out to total strangers and attempt to interpret and understand signs and signals we cannot read. It’s all part of the experience of being an Asialink arts resident, and yet there is an added deliciousness when you do make that new discovery...be it practical, personal, cultural or creative. You are pushing at your own edges as well as learning about the environment you are in and the people that you meet. 
          TAV resident Yoni Lefevre (from the Netherlands) is completing her residency at the end of the week, so we make rough plans for a road trip to the not to be missed iconic Taroko National Park. With the assistance of her Taiwanese friend Hui-Chun Chen we book a car (note: at a much cheaper rate than the advertised English price) while another resident Helene books us a B & B....and it is this that sees me a day or so later negotiating a brand new Lexus out into that evening traffic. The face of the woman who rents it to us is hilarious, as she instructs me for the tenth time in Chinese how to use the brake. She is far more anxious than me, but I do feel slightly unnerved, what have I taken on? As I sit on the wrong side of the car, and head out onto the wrong side of the road, the GPS has become my new best friend?  Moments later 'she' is my worst enemy as 'she' instructs me to make a left turn straight into a packed night market…it is a VERY close shave although we make it through to the other side with no broken bones..(just)
          On the road
          We depart at 6.30am the next day, aiming to avoid the morning rush of 1000’s of scooters and cars, and slowly over the next 48 hours my driving skills and confidence will improve. I am ably coached by my awesome 'artistic' team who are all providing instructions as we tunnel it, hair-pin bend it and rally drive around the mountains…Its often a heart-stopping close encounter, and yes, perhaps just a little bit of what I came here for.
          Taroko Gorge
          The Baiyang Trail

          View from Chandong temple

          We spend the next two days visiting the seriously beautiful East Coast region of Taiwan (see side page for more info)There is the marble cliffs, deep gullies, rushing rivers and sheer mountainsides of the eye-popping Taroko Gorge. Getting lost down tight one-way lanes and then finding our B& B internet surprise. Deeply bedded down in the countryside in amongst the rice paddies it proves a total winner with superb local hosts, startlingly good amenities, and postcard views of those lush mountains from the bed through an enormous window. After a night street eating in down town Hualien we begin the day trekking through bamboo to a hidden rock pool near Xincheng (lead by our B& B owner, who is one unforgettably generous host) Here we swim, dive and snorkle at the foot of the mountains, later moving onto a wide picturesque beach with turquoise water and a dark pebbled shore. 
          Mountains meet the ocean
          A secret spot!
          We drive on to Suao and a seafood lunch in a port village at one of the largest restaurants I have ever been to (it’s three floors and a zillion tables). We taste, we try, we eat, we wander the streets, witnessing the weekly ‘blessing of the fleet’ at the local temple, before we drive again, drop off the car and then sleep….and trust me, I won’t quickly forget the relief I felt handing back that brand new ‘unscratched’ white Lexus, it was a high five moment all round!! 
          Pretty happy!
          The most important aspect of being a resident artist has been to be removed from what is familiar. In that sense, it is less about what is gained, but more so what you are relieved of - comforts, familiarity, the social structure of your little world, and so on. When away from these things, it is easier to be self- reflective, to start again with nothing. Old truths fall away, and you are allowed to discover new pathways in life and art. (Antony Hamilton, Choreographer)

          Sunday, July 19, 2015

          New spaces, places and performances

          My local lunch spot
          The owner & TV
          I'm sitting in a small open air-street cafe in a laneway about three doors up from Taipei Artist's Village. It's lunchtime, there's Taiwan soap on the small raised TV to watch as we sit at small tables eating a delicious local staple, pork rice, with a plate of fresh steamed veges for just under $2 AUD. I'm feeling like a regular (after all of two weeks) and enjoying the warm air and the friendly nod of the guy who runs the place (with Mum it looks like). This last week has seen me start to sketch out my project, looking at spaces and meeting new people who are so keen to assist, it's just lovely. I've been seeing some awesome venues and performances, and experiencing the vibrancy and energy that is in the contemporary arts community in Taipei, in particular the contemporary dance scene.

          Up the stairs
          The newly minted resident artists had the opportunity to visit the recently opened (April this year) Cloud Gate Theater in Tamsui. On a day trip organised by the TAV, the artists and visiting studio interns take the MRT to the end of the (Red!) line, then taxi's to the idyllic lush green surrounds that is the Cloud Gate Theater and the home to international contemporary dance company Cloud Gate Dance Theatre. With our guide we toured the buildings, caught glimpses of dancers in the studio and viewed a photographic exhibition of past works. We then had the pleasure of sitting in on a rehearsal of Rice, a much loved work by the company being currently remounted for international touring and an up coming large-scale outdoor performance in Taipei's cultural center, near the National Theater. Apparently over 10,000 people will attend, and (of course) I am planning to go along and check it out. The Cloud Gate Theater has a wonderful sense of intimacy and warmth compared to the mausoleum effect of so many Chinese theaters. It's beauty in the full-length glass rear windows that let in the natural light and the rich green of the surrounding forest of trees. Magic!  It felt a real privilege to be able to see this space as the interiors are currently not open to general public viewing. Here are some images from places where I was allowed to take them.
          Theatre and sculptures!
          Deck view

          Lunch is provided for the dancers
          All those feet
          Donors wall - Over 4500+ people helped to build this Theater after a fire wiped our the Company's space & storage in 2008
          Nestled in amongst the trees & flowers
          Some things are the same...wherever you are
          Afterwards we have a traditional Chinese banquet lunch in downtown Tamsui. Off the street, up a small stairway, we are seated around big round tables, old-style fans whirring overhead. The courses keep on coming, loads of seafood, so fresh it comes straight from the tank. I try an assorted range of foods and flavours....some things I know what I am eating, others I don't...
          All of us
          Snails - and I ate one!
          Chinese Feast

          Lunch!
          We hit the streets and its pelting rain as we trek down narrow alleys and then out along a grey beachfront making our way back up the hill. Tamsui is an historic port town and we experience a guided visit to one of the local tourist spots, Fort Hobe, before we move on to a presentation and Open Studio showing held by the New Taipei International Residency program.  The sun has come out and we are 'steaming', thrilled to take tea (in air conditioning) and chat to the diverse group of mainly visual resident artists who share their work with us. Once again we all end up on the rooftop for a collective group pic!
          Tamsui waterfront walk
          Fort Hobe
          Open Studio - New Taipei International Residential artist
          The TAV also organise a visit for us out to the other residential space they operate at Treasure Hill. I appreciate that as part of their mission they state they 'provide a home for Artistic Nomads and Cultural Interchange' and it feels a pretty accurate description of us right now. While only 30 minutes drive away Treasure Hill is another world. Partially set in the heart of a traditional village community, at the edge of a river settlement, it is the antithesis of the urbane centralised space we are living in. A Buddhist temple nestles at the edge of the community, with its warren of studio residential spaces, micro-studio work spaces, galleries and small arty shops & cafes. Here the sense of village life and past history is more prevailing, though within this sense of other worldliness nearby freeways also provide a reminder of the constant pulse of the city. We explore spaces, possible exhibition & presentation venues, and meet the locals (including the rampant mosquitos). * See Treasure Hill page for more pics
          Past/present
          Local cafe/store
           I am also here to be introduced to Taiwanese resident artist Tseng Ting Yu who may be able to assist me with my own project. Part of my research and exploration involves working with Chinese text in translation. Not only as 'words' but I am also seeking to capture the movement quality of how it might be written or painted. As Ting is also a gifted calligrapher, the TAV team thought we could possibly collaborate. We take tea with Ting and his partner in his beautiful studio (that he has renovated himself, including building much of the furniture) and have a wonderful session. I am hoping to video him translating text I have written, and then work with this material in a number of different ways in the studio. I am lucky to be with my TAV host Wanying as I am fast learning that some forms of translation definitely require Mandarin.  
          Wanying & Tseung Ting Yu
          Calligraphy & me
          I see another new contemporary dance work The Second Body showcased by local company Anarchy Dance Theatre. This is an exciting collaboration between highly regarded emerging choreographer Chieh-hau Hsieh and digital designers Software Architecture with sound designers Ultra Combos & Yannick Dauby. There are 6 projectors covering every area of a square white tarket, with audience on all four sides. A solo female dancer performs the work, and almost painfully it feels like she is re-building her body from scratch. This is an intimate and powerful performance...then the digital, motion capture technology takes over. In a section of the work a 360 degree full-body length projection is achieved, that pulses and vibrates. It is totally mesmerising as this 'second' created body appears, though I find myself missing the human quality as the performer's body becomes canvas to this digital visual feast. (Check out their website for a video excerpt) Afterwards there is an intensive discussion, and I enjoy the rigor of the questioning, where there is dialogue not merely critique. Thanks to my colleague Hsu Yenting who provides the translation of the exchange.
          It's interesting to note that the exploration of digital technology, the use of video and multi-media elements is a key component of many new contemporary dance works in Taiwan. If you are interested in reading more on the work of Hsieh Chieh-Hua and others experimenting with new technologies there is a great article by Chen Chang-Chih The New Aesthetics of Dance & Technology in Taiwan in Culturebot.
          Anarchy's new work

          Audience with projectors

          At other times I am watching and experiencing new work on my own with limited translation to the post-show discussions (which seem a natural part of most presentations and are involved and often lengthy). This makes for a different and unique experience which is no less rewarding as I 'feel' my way and open up to another level of allowing impression and imprint to happen organically. I view a new work in progress showing at NTU Theater by Dance Forum Taipei which reflects upon the Chinese age-old tradition of footbinding. It is a poetic and lyrical piece, that is poignant and gently moving and will grow into an interesting work. It is to be accompanied by two grand pianos played live and much of the discussion centres around the spatial design challenges. The following day I visit the Company in their own studios and I am warmly welcomed by Artistic Director Ping Heng & resident choreographer Ming-Lung Yang. We watch Company auditions and I am introduced to recent graduates and auditionees who may participate in my project. After getting lost in the labyrinth of laneways on my way there it ultimately proves to be a productive morning!
          Dance Forum Taipei Studio
          Work in Progress showing at NTU
          Later in the week, TAV Director Wu Dar-Kuen invites me to the opening of an installation/multi-disciplinary work as part of the Songyan Culture Lab, an initiative of the Songshan Cultural Park.  Much more Mandarin text features in this exploration by a group of emerging artists under the direction of I-Fen Tung (M.O.V E Theatre) in this site-specific installation. Incorporating video, visual design, choreographed movement and text with some audience interaction (we can sit anywhere, and move about the work) the elements don't quite jell, and we are left with a feeling that the collaboration between these artists hasn't quite achieved what it might have. It is certainly the opinion of one viewer. In a post show discussion that lasts almost as long as the work, even though he is speaking in Mandarin, one recognises the familiar and universal tone of the disgruntled expert!
          Songshan Culture & Art park - another converted factory space
          Lab
          Show ends
          The Installation
          It's been a stimulating introduction to feeling the 'groove and move' of the local dance/performance community. What began with a visit to Cloud Gate just over a week ago culminates in watching their open-air free public performance of Rice. To sit amongst thousands of local people in this grand historic venue is a magical and unforgettable experience. The energy is quietly anticipatory and also joyful. They are here to watch, appreciate and celebrate the work of one of the great contemporary choreographers, Lin Hwai Min (who receives a rock star welcome on stage) and experience this incredible dance company. They and I are not disappointed, it is an wonderful finale to an amazing week.

           ....we got in touch with the wind and the sun, the drizzle of rain and the mud and the soil. You can create work in a studio but the elements of nature stimulate you physically. You press down into the ground and draw energy from gravity. You feel a sense of power from pushing into the soil with your feet. It was a wonderful experience and gave us a new perspective: it's not just dancing...
          (Lin Hwai Min)
          Pre-show
          Cloud Gate in action

          Friday, July 10, 2015

          Taipei - 开始 (to begin)


          Foyer Taipei Artist Village
          To find where you are staying, to get there, to enter, to put down your bags and finally stop…
          The inner elation in just making it…in arrival, and in beginning.
          And then it starts…wow, and what a first week! Learning on my feet, as I explore and experiment, with phones, food, visiting places, meeting new faces and all to a different sound and rhythm… I am make new routines to this new rhythm AND in this climate, which right now is super hot and humid. I go for a run and return saturated, or I get literally soaked as I get caught out in a downpour of torrential rain…and I am writing this as a Typhoon approaches!

          Moving from my gorgeous studio 204 to the even more awesome 302, I am relishing the space and the solo framework. The inner city ambiance and vibe of the TAV (with its own galleries, café, dance studio etc) is really fantastic. In addition there is a wonderful group of supportive staff along with the diverse and growing group of new resident artists who keep arriving over the week. 
          I am initially welcomed by security staff, then warmly greeted by Ching Ching Yang and I-Hua Lee, AIR Taipei Director Wu Dar-Kuen and now my host support Wanying. I find the supermarket, local MTR stop, great street eats, superb coffee and set up home base. Intern Annie from Hong Kong assists me in getting a great phone plan, shows me over a local stationary shop and we share a chat over iced teas.  
          Other residency artists begin to arrive:
          Helen Juilliet - France 
          Lior Shamriz - Israel via Berlin & California
          Yoon Hyangro - Seoul, South Korea
          Ha, Francie (the eteam) & son Lewis - New York, USA
          Early on we head out for group intro dinner with current resident Yoni Lefevre and a group of her local friends. The food is seriously fabulous (as it is everywhere, in addition to being fresh & available on the street all the time!...more about that later) Already sampling new and surprising food is becoming a daily treat. The group almost gets waylaid (lost) but thanks to Google maps we eventually find the upstairs restaurant (in the Xinyi district) and we have a great night. 
          I want to see everything and head off in all directions, taking in the local district of Zhongzheng. I visit Longshan & Qingshan Temples, the historical Bopiliao area, & Ghangzhou street market. I really enjoy MOCA (Museum of Contemporary Art) and exhibitions When I Become You by Korean artist Yeesookyung and Polit-Sheer-Form Individualised Forever (PSFO art group). I get my first massage and walk a lot. As I said, it's hot, humid and at times a challenging assault to the senses and the body, but everywhere I find people are welcoming, helpful and generous.
          MOCA entrance
          I reunite with Hsu Yenting (2015 Asialink reciprocal resident, Fremantle Arts Centre) and we coffee (it’s really good!), have a catch up chat, make plans and then check out the Huashan 1914 Cultural Park. Along with exhibition spaces, music venues, and currently the Taipei Film Festival, shops, cafes and quirky bars make this converted factory site a local contemporary arts mecca. We visit an upstairs exhibition/installation (complete with a coffin that you can get inside and watch a video) 
          A day or so later we regroup to watch a outdoors site specific dance performance Slow dancing in the Fast Lane by exciting local company Horse at the Museum of Fine Arts X-site architectural installation The Texture of Uncertainty. I meet the dance company's Artistic Director Chen Wu-Kang and hopefully we will catch up again while I am here.
          Hsu Yenting & Friend
          Over two days the Village hosts the inaugural 2015 Annual Conference for the ArtistVillage Alliance of Taiwan. Those who run artist residencies from around the world are here and I meet up with individuals from Tokyo, Florida, New York, and from all over Taiwan. This place is buzzing!
          Eliza Emily Roberts from Asialink (Australia) flies in to deliver a keynote address, and it is a busy few days. We head off on a sightseeing adventure and are joined by Nathalie Angles from Residencies Unlimited (NYC) and Bruce Rodgers from The Hermitage (Florida). We take in a traditional breakfast at Fuhang Soy Milk, One of the largest local temples, the Baoan Temple, The National Palace Museum, & Tapiei 101 (the second highest building in the world, and the one with the fastest lift, according to the Guiness book of Records famed notification (see below)
          Bruce, Eliza & Nathalie at Baoan Temple
          The Proof!
          Later in the week, Eliza and I, accompanied by Cindy Wu from the local Australian Office go on a day excursion to the far South of the Island by fast train and then by road to Pintung County. Here we visit Taiwan Indigenous Peoples Cultural Park and then meet individually with leading Paiwanese artists Sakuliu Pavalung, Etan Pavavalung, & Nitjan Takivsalit (Daki) and I discover more about this island’s diverse and rich cultural history prior to colonisation by the Chinese, Japanese and the west. We visit their studios high up into the mountains viewing powerful sculptures and beautifully crafted artworks. As stories unfold there are haunting parallels to the Australian Aboriginal experience. 
          Cindy Wu, Eliza & staff member
          Etan Pavavalung with Cindy at his studio in Rinari
          We hold our first Open Studio for the visiting delegates at the close of the conference. It’s just five days since I arrived, but I set up research materials, print off photo displays and screen the short film of Standing Bird 2 as a sample of my work. There is a warm and genuine interest, great questions and dialogue, as I meet and chat with the wonderful Margaret Chiu (Bamboo Curtain) and also Aibo Lee from (Freedom Man Art Apartments). The conference then concludes up on the rooftop with a traditional banquet served with the Taipei skyline as and incredible backdrop. Here we are entertained by the traditional Taiwanese puppet company I Wan JanPuppet Theater followed by a hands on experience with the puppeteers working with these small wooden hand-held puppets.
          Yenting & Eliza
          A first - puppets on a rooftop
          Asialink trio
          Next morning I head off to the National Theatre of Taiwan (it’s impressively huge) where I have a great meeting with Pen-Ting Huang (Head of programming and Planning) and Sarah Ting We-Chang also from the programming and planning department. They talk over their vision and the various governmental processes that underpin their activities, and we exchange information on Australian and Taiwanese contemporary dance. I have the opportunity to talk with them about our show Standing Bird 2, am armed with as many pamphlets and booklets as I can carry, and then we take a tour of this incredible building and its two theatres venues (the Main Theatre & Experimental Theatre). There are possibilities to sit in on future rehearsals, and we will see each other soon at a work in progress showing we are both attending in the coming week.
          Pen-Ting & Sarah
          Bump In at The National
          A final event with Eliza sees me at Café Wooloomooloo meeting the team from the Australian office and a group of young delegates from the Colombo Plan, an educational exchange/internship program offered by the Australian government. The crew from the Oz office are warm and welcoming (as is everyone), and the students genuinely excited and clearly changed by their completed two week secondment. I also meet previous Asialink Resident Annie Ivanova who came here approx. 5 years ago, and has never left! She now has her own successful arts/curatorial consultancy and generously offers her assistance in the facilitating of my project. 
          We finish up the night with a meeting and meal shared with Kueiju Lin and her partner from MOVE Theatre. This collective of Taipei based artists is a multi-disciplinary performance company and their program looks fantastic. I am invited by Kueiju to visit their space and attend a rehearsal/showing of a remount of a work Dear John in a week or so, and to also come along to other scheduled events. We then take a lazy stroll together checking out a busy local night market (one of many that seem to be dotted across the city).
          Australian Office event at Cafe Wooloomooloo
          Kueiju Lin & partner with Eliza at the street market
          Meanwhile I continue my research, reading and planning for my TAV Taiwan development project, now with a working title The Ghost Bride. I discover and uncover more 'ghostly' traditions, strange rituals and various myths around all things ‘ghostly, and as Ghost Month approaches I look forward to experiencing and witnessing much more…

          Each day fills too easily and I crawl into bed nightly with a weary body, aching muscles (yep, all that walking) and wondering what surprises the next day will bring.
          The week has been busy...card swopping (and the timing of it) is an artform
          And Kuan Yin (the goddess), she appears again...watch this space
           
          A dear friend wrote this to me in an email this week..it says in just a few words the space and place I am now in.
          "We all wake up eventually, even if its just into another dream." (HB)
            
          * (Note: Also since starting my blog, I have now decided I will do pages on particular events, research and experiences, keeping my actual posts to the days and week’s activities! Just so many photos! So check out the Pages in the side menu for more info and pix.)